Tuesday Tip: No-Mark Stitch and Flip

A few weeks ago, I had the privilege of visiting our fabric distributor, TrendTex Fabrics in Port Coquitlam, BC (a suburb of Vancouver). I was there with a few others to work with the lovely Sue Jensen who showed us this stitch-and-flip sewing tip. Sue is an amazing teacher and we learned a lot from her that day!

The only thing you need is a simple piece of cardboard and it will save you from having to mark all those diagonal lines as you join strips for binding, jelly roll strips, etc. Sooner or later as quilters we all come across an instruction in a pattern asking us to stitch and flip!

This method is much faster than marking lines on each of your strips or squares. Think about using this method for half-square triangles also.

Step 1: Here’s the rectangle with a square to be added. Cut a narrow strip of paper, lightweight cardboard (cereal box weight or file folder) or lightweight sandpaper like you see below. Sue used cardboard.

Step 2:  Place the square on top of the rectangle, right sides together.

Step 3:  Lay the cardboard strip across the square, corner to corner. Cardboard should be a little longer than the distance from corner to corner.

Step 4:  Sew along the straight edge of the cardboard, holding the cardboard in place while sewing. Chain as many as you wish.

You will get a perfect diagonal seam!

Step 5:  Trim the seam allowance to a 1/4″.

Step 6:  Set the seam by pressing over the stitching and then flip the smaller patch open and press.

Now you have a perfect diagonal line without marking each square.

Happy stitching!

 

 

 

Tuesday Tip: Using Pool Noodles

Creative quilters are finding many uses for inexpensive pool noodles available at your local Dollar Store or outlet centre. They come in your choice of many fun colours and aren’t just for kids! Pool noodles can be used to baste, store, ship quilts and more!

Here’s some of our favourite quilty uses:

  1. Basting Quilts – Three pool noodles make basting a quilt a breeze. Roll the backing, batting and top around pool noodles and unroll them as you go. Watch this short video that demonstrates how to base a quilt using three noodles.

 

2. Wrinkle-free Storage – When quilts are not in use try wrapping them around a pool noodles. This is a great way to prevent creases in the quilts.

3. Packing for Quilt Shows – Rolled quilts are also perfect for transporting to shows. A dowel can be inserted in the center of the noodles for large, heavy quilts to keep the pool noodles from bowing. Secure the quilts by tying them with a ribbon or strip of fabric.

4. Binding Organization – A short length of pool noodle works nicely for keeping a prepared binding neat and ready to use. Plus, it’s lightweight and travels easily to class or a retreat. Simply pin both ends of the binding into the pool noodle to secure it.

When you’re ready to sew the binding onto the quilt, the pool noodle will sit nicely in your lap as the binding reels off.

5. Pincushion – Pool noodles also work for pin cushions. They are especially helpful for storing open basting pins. Use a knife to cut the length you want, then cut it in half down the center.

Or, slice pool noodles across the diameter for lightweight pin cushions.

6. Crease Free Hanging Storage – Cut a pool noodle lengthwise to slide over a hanger, so that your quilt, quilt top, pieces and strips are ready to come back to without creases.

We hope you can have fun putting a pool noodle to use in your sewing studio this spring!

Happy stitching!

 

 

Tuesday Tip: Quilting with Fireside Backing

There are many choices for backing quilts these days. From regular quilting cottons, to wide backings in both flannel and cotton. Many quilters are going with less traditional options these days and lots of us have moved on to cozy synthetics such as “Fireside” which comes out of our Vancouver, BC warehouse. Fireside is a 150cm (60”) wide 100% polyester fabric with a soft, velvety hand; kind of a velour, making it the perfect width for large lap or single size quilts and can be pieced for larger quilts. It’s less slippery than Minkee, so it’s a little easier to work with with less drama dealing with nap. If you’re thinking about trying one of the 46 different colours of Fireside, here are some tips to consider as you sandwich your next quilt top:

1. Batting or no batting?
Because Fireside is already so cozy, you may decide you don’t have to put batting in your quilt. This makes your project more like a throw. If you think you would still like a layer of batting that’s just fine and most of our samples have batting between the layers as we like warmer quilts in our Canadian climate.
2. Stay sharp!
As with other synthetic fabrics such as Minkee or fleece, you may find that your needle dulls faster than it does when sewing with other fibres. If you start with a fresh needle, you can avoid the pitfalls of dull needles such as breakage, skipped stitches, or the needle trying to push the fabric into the machine.
3. Stitches Sink Right In
Because of the velvety pile of Fireside, it may be hard to see the stitches on the back of your quilt as the stitches can get hidden in the pile. With Fireside, you can use a slightly heavier thread, such as a 30wt, to create more impact with your quilting. We have never had an issue with the “pile” pulling through to the front of a quilt with Fireside on the back. Other polyester backings with higher pile can pull through sometimes and be seen on the front.
4. Baste Well
Fireside is a knit fabric and, like most knit fabrics, it can be a bit stretchy. To keep it from stretching as you sew, it is important to do a good job basting your layers before you start quilting. If you are using quilters’ curved safety pins, you should have one pin every 4” (10cm) both vertically and horizontally.  Basting spray is also a great tool when working with Fireside. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your spray. Many of our quilting friends find Fireside less stretchy than Minkee as they install it on the back of their quilts.
5.  Not Wide Enough? 
If you are piecing the quilt back, make sure that the nap on the panels is running in the same direction.  Also, it is recommended that the nap run down the length of the quilt, i.e. it should feel smooth as you run your hand down from the top of the quilt. A 1/2″ seam allowance works well to join lengths of Fireside. A finger press works good (or gentle press on correct iron setting) to hold the seam allowance open as you prepare your quilt sandwich. That seam almost disappears when working with Fireside and becomes practically invisible. Fireside, if used as backing, should be mounted on a longarm with the stretch going from side to side, so that that into account when piecing.
Next time you’re in the store, check out our selection of Fireside. If you don’t see the colour you want, please ask and our staff will be glad to special order a colour for you pending availability from the warehouse. Everything we have in stock is displayed on our website. You may find it’s just soft and cozy enough to convince you to try using it on the back of a quilt.

Elna Grasshopper – Ahead of its time!

Recently, Pauline, the owner of our shop, discovered three green vintage sewing machines in army green metal cases. She discovered the machines as she was helping to move her elderly parents, Lou & Yvonne, the original owners and founders of Hamels Fabrics. Poppa Hamel was once a sewing machine dealer here in Chilliwack and along with his dear wife, Yvonne, started Hamels Fabrics. After they retired, the business was sold to their youngest daughter, Pauline, who has continued to build the shop into what we see today.

Have you ever seen or heard of an Elna Grasshopper? This mighty little machine was originally designed in the late 1930’s and was in production from 1940 until 1952, and was one of the best selling sewing machines at that time.

Fun Facts:  The “Grasshopper” was the very first sewing machine that Elna produced and was Switzerland’s answer to America’s Singer Featherweight. Although these two models are similar in weight and portability, there are many distinct differences as well. The Grasshopper didn’t officially have a model number or a name but it’s colour and styling resembling and insect.

It was the first mass produced portable free arm sewing machine, and gave the Singer Featherweight a run for its money!

History: The Grasshopper was invented by a Spanish Civil War refugee named Ramon Casas, and mass produced in Geneva, Switzerland by the firm, Tavaro S. A.

While the Grasshopper was not released for public distribution until 1940, it has actually been around since 1936. At the time, Europe was embroiled in World War II, and Tavaro was involved in manufacturing munitions.

However, due to the Swiss policy of neutrality, the war related product line was eliminated. With the factory quiet, Tavaro shifted to making sewing machines and the world was introduced to the Elna Grasshopper.

The Grasshopper’s efficient and functional metal carrying case was ideal for wartime. Right away when Pauline brought these machines into the shop to show us, I thought that the case looked like something from M*A*S*H 4077 (1970’s reference…) !

Whenever bombs were dropping, bullets whizzing through the streets and soldiers were marching through small towns, the Elna sewing machine was easy to pack up and compact, making it possible for refugees escaping the horrors of war to carry it as they fled to safe havens on trains and buses.

At A Glance

When you first see the case, you aren’t sure what’s inside. Then after opening it up you are first struck by how cute the whole thing is… a little green sewing machine tucked inside.

The machine itself looks kind of funny. There’s this metal thing hanging from it. At first glance, you aren’t sure if it is a hanging rod or some weird attachment. Upon further inspection, we realized it was a knee controlled replacement for the traditional foot pedal.

The next thing that caught our attention was the fact that the fly wheel is at the bottom of the machine, not the top. The motor is located directly behind the fly wheel. It really looks a little funny, but very innovative for when it was made.

The power switch is located on the very top of the machine. The light housed above the needle, giving the user the best possible illumination while sewing, a definite improvement over the Featherweight.

Features

This odd looking all metal portable sewing machine is equipped with the following standard features:

  • Straight stitch only
  • Knee lift
  • Two owner’s manuals
  • Carrying case doubles as work table
  • Free arm

Working on the Elna Grasshopper

The carrying case is functional in more ways than just providing a neat means of transport for the Grasshopper. It converts into a sewing table. Remember folks, this was 60 years before Sew Steady Tables came along!

I’m not sure how many other portable sewing machine carrying cases have as many unique features, but this one has certainly got to be at or near the top of the list.

With a case like this, you only need access to electricity to whip up a great outfit. You can literally open up an Elna Grasshopper and sew almost anywhere.

Just imagine riding on a train, waiting in an airport terminal or sitting in a coffee shop and sewing away while sipping on your favorite cappuccino, zooming along the rails to your next destination or waiting for your flight to start boarding.

Threading the Elna Grasshopper is a simple process

The only drawback is that when you use the carrying case as a sewing table, you do not have access to the free arm or bobbin case.

Threading the Elna Grasshopper is a simple process, but different from anything we had seen on other sewing machines.

There are no onboard guides, like those found on today’s sewing machines, but if you are familiar with operating sewing machines at all, you can figure it out easily.

Winding the bobbin is a little different from winding bobbins on other machines. The bobbin winding pin is located behind the balance wheel, attached to the motor axle.

Unlike most machines, it is not necessary to turn the balance wheel before winding the bobbin. The trick to remember, though, is the machine will NOT sew if you leave a spare bobbin on the bobbin pin.

The Elna Grasshopper is a straight stitch only sewing machine. The two step adjustable stitch length regulator is not the easiest to operate, but it works fine.

Like many other straight stitch only machines, the stitches produced by the Grasshopper are neat and have that distinctive look about them.

The Grasshopper stitches at the rate of about 500-700 stitches per minute. This is very good when you think of how small this machine is. It is also relatively quiet… which bodes well if you actually do decide to break out your Grasshopper and start sewing in a coffee shop or airport terminal.

In fact, the carrying case and sewing machine are both in remarkably good condition – especially when you consider how old they are.

One thing that really caused us to stop and take a second look is that the manufacturer not only recommends that a little bit of oil be put at several points all over the machine, users are also advised to add a little bit of kerosene near the bobbin shuttle.
Kerosene is a highly combustible fluid and we are not so sure we would recommend its use, but the owner’s manual specifically states oil at some points and kerosene at others.For now, one of the Grasshoppers that Pauline rescued during the move is on display in the store. We think this little green guy deserves to be enjoyed and viewed out in the open to remind us of a bygone era and show us some historical Swiss ingenuity. We think he is kinda special!

 

Tuesday Tip: Weighted Blankets using poly pellets

If you’ve never heard of or used a weighted blanket before, they are often described as feeling like a gentle hug as they apply a soothing and consistent pressure to sleepers. Weighted blankets can also have positive effects on mental health, decreasing anxiety and can help you get a more restful sleep. On top of all of those awesome uses, a weighted blanket also, obviously, helps keep you warm.

Weighted blankets have been proven to help with many different things, alleviating ailments that include but are not limited to:

  • Insomnia
  • Anxiety
  • Frustration or Anger
  • Stress
  • Autism symptoms such as sensory overload

A couple of ladies on staff, here at the shop, have made weighted blankets for grandchildren and loved ones in their families. The results so far have been great and the recipients of these blankets are receiving restful sleep. So we recommend making a blanket like this for yourself or a loved one!

If this is your first time making one of these blankets, start with materials like cotton or flannel. Measure your length and width of choice for your blanket, and choose two pieces of fabric at this size.

Note:  In this post, we are going to refer to the ingredients to create your own weighted blanket(s) and for more information or tutorials, we refer you to information on the internet.

These blankets are not quilted with batting (like a traditional quilt), but rather pockets are made, filled with poly pellets and then stitched shut. The poly pellets are available via our website and take approximately 10 days to come from our warehouse. Once you determine how many pounds of pellets you need for your weighted blanket, you can choose between a small bag, a 6 pound bag for a small child or a 25 pound box if you are making a weighted blanket for an adult. The rule is to purchase pellets for the blanket you are going to make in a quantity to match 10% of the person’s body weight; typically around 15 to 20 pounds for adults. If the blanket is for a child, keeping a cautious eye on the blanket weight is even more important.

Brief construction details:

  1. Sew front and back fabrics right sides together, and double stitch it on three sides.
  2. Divide up your blanket into pockets by measuring the overall size. Make your columns no smaller than 7″, and try to evenly divide them up like she shows in the video below. The less rows, the faster the project!
  3. Calculate how many pockets you will sew and evenly divide the pellets to go inside each pocket. All the pockets will have the same amount of pellets inserted. Using a scale will ensure even distribution of the pellets.
  4. After filling an amount into what will become a pocket, sew across your blanket making an enclosed square that contains a determined amount of pellets.

Below are a couple of images from one of the weighted blankets. Denise, who works here at the store, made this pink and white blanket for a member of her family.

Denise chose to put flannel on the front and reverse side of the weighted blanket she sewed.

We hope that you will consider sewing a weighted blanket for someone special you know that could use a blanket that feels like a gentle soothing hug. We could all use more of that don’t you think!

Happy stitching!