Category Archives: Tutorials

The Tips and Tricks Of Accuquilt


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Accuquilt is a great way to cut shapes out to piece your quilt.  It saves time and creates perfect shapes for perfect piecing.  No more ruler and rotary cutter needed.  In addition to this, there are some real neat short cuts and tricks you can use with your Accuquilt to create great blocks and even binding.  You can use the Accuquilt to create beautiful quilts from those old quilt patterns  Watch this video below from Eleanor Burns as she demonstrates how in the way that she can only do. Click Here for more information on all our Accuquilt products or to order your own.

Breezy Buntings Throw Quilt Tutorial


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With the fall upon us the windy storm season is coming. For those who live in The BC South Coast, you have already experienced a storm last week that shut down a lot of greater Vancouver.  Some people were without power for three days.  Well that is the perfect time to snuggle up with a warm quilt and this Breezy Bunting quilt by Sarah Zimmerman is perfect for the upcoming fall season.  The quilt finishes at 68 inches square.  You will have fun making the quilt by following this tutorial.  Start by selecting your charm packs by Clicking Here.  Then see the huge selection of co-ordinating  fabric we have  from our website at hamelsfabrics.

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2 Charm Packs: Persimmon by Basic Grey

4 yd background: “Roasted Marshmallows Grunge”

4 1/2 yd backing:  2 yd GingerSnap (Golden Delicious Tart 30385 14), 2 yd Harvest Cider (Golden Delicious Tart 30382 15), 1/2 yd GingerSnap (Blueberry Crumbles 30385 12)

1/2 yd binding: Pumpkin spice (Golden Delicious Tart 30384 17)

Batting: at least 69″ x 69″

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Overview:

There are 4 different pieced units for this quilt, each utilizing HSTs (Half Square Triangles) and squares:

Pinwheels (13), Bunting A (22), Bunting B (12), and Corners (4)

Also, forming the background, there are:  16  squares, 20 setting triangles, and 4 corner triangles.

summary of parts

Cutting Instructions:

From background fabric (roasted marshmallow!):

For the pieced units,

1.   Cut 8  5″ x WOF strips.  Cut each strip into 5″ squares. Mark these on the wrong side, diagonally from corner to corner. Total:  64 5″ squares (58 for the top, 6 for the back)

2.  Cut 8  4 1/2″ x WOF strips, 1  4 1/2″ x 18″ strip.  Cut each strip into 4 1/2″ squares.  Total:  76 4 1/2″ squares (64 for the top, 12 for the back)

For the setting units,

3.  Cut 16  8 1/2″ squares:  3   8 1/2″ x WOF strips, 5 squares per strip, plus 1 square, from step 4)

4.  Cut 10  8 7/8″ squares :  3  8 7/8″ x WOF  strips, 4 squares per 2 strips, out of 3rd strip cut 2  8 7/8″ squares, and the odd 8 1/2″ square from step 3.  Cut these (8 7/8″ squares) on the diagonal, for the setting triangles.

setting triangles

5.  Cut 1  9 1/4″ square. Cut on both diagonals, for a total of 4 corner triangles.

corner triangles

From Binding fabric (Pumpkin Spice!):

Cut 7  2 1/2″ strips.  Sew end to end and press in half the entire length.  I roll mine around a bottle, ready and waiting for that fun final step!

Piecing Instructions:

Make HSTs:

Choose 64 charms from the 2 charm packs.  Pair with the 64 marked 5″ background squares.  Chain-piecing, sew 1/4″ from each side of the marked diagonal line, press, cut on the line and trim to 4 1/2″, press again.

trimmed hsts

Assemble Pieced Units:

Before you sew the units, play with placement and loosely determine a balance of color and saturation for the pinwheels, which make up the center of the quilt, and the buntings, which make up the border, being mindful of the 4 pinwheels in each corner.

Make 13 Pinwheel units:

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Make 22 Bunting A units: 16 for the top, set aside 6 for the back

bunting A

 

Make 12 Bunting B units

bunting B

 

Make 4 Corner units

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Quilt Top Assembly Instructions:

Before assembling rows, choose 4 Pinwheel units for the corners, and sew the 4 corner set triangles to them.

Now is the time to determine your layout.  It helps to have your units in labeled stacks, so that you don’t get your Bunting A units confused with your Bunting B units.

The Layout:

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Here is a diagram showing the layout, with the units color-coded:

diagram by color

Pinwheels=orange, Bunting A=light blue, Bunting B=brown, Corners=dark blue

Written out, and referring to the photo and the diagram, the rows are assembled like this:

Row 1:  Setting triangle, Pinwheel w/corner triangle, Setting triangle

Row 2:  Setting triangle, Bunting A, Corner unit, Bunting A, Setting triangle

Row 3:  Setting triangle, Bunting A, Bunting B, 8 1/2″ Square, Bunting B, Bunting A, Setting triangle

Row 4:  Setting triangle,Bunting A, Bunting B, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square, Bunting B, Bunting A, Setting triangle

Row 5:  Setting triangle, Bunting A, Bunting B, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square,Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square,Bunting B, Bunting A, Setting           triangle

Row 6 (longest row):  Pinwheel w/corner triangle, Corner unit, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square, Corner unit, Pinwheel w/corner triangle 

Row 7:  Setting triangle, Bunting A, Bunting B, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2 Square, Bunting B, Bunting A, Setting triangle

Row 8:  Setting triangle, Bunting A, Bunting B, 8 1/2″ Square, Pinwheel, 8 1/2″ Square, Bunting B, Bunting A, Setting triangle

Row 9:  Setting triangle, Bunting A, Bunting B, 8 1/2″ Square, Bunting B, Bunting A, Setting triangle

Row 10: Setting triangle, Bunting A, Corner unit, Bunting A, Setting triangle

Row 11:  Setting triangle, Pinwheel w/corner triangle, Setting triangle

Whew!  Are you still with me? Trust me when I tell you it is easier done than said!

Once you have assembled the rows, you may press them so the seams are opposing for each row, and sew the rows together, and Voila! finished top!

But that is not all, hang with me now, because we have a fun pieced backing to whip up, too! (The Nut Brown side of the quilt!)

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From the 1/2 yd of Ginger Snap, blueberry crumbles:

Cut 5  8 7/8″ squares. Cut on the diagonal, for a total of 10 setting triangles.

Cut 1  9 1/4″ square. Cut on both diagonals, for a total of 4 corner triangles.

Using the 6 Bunting A units set aside earlier:

back assembly

 

Sew the 6 units together, sewing the last two corner triangles to each end.  Press.

back assembly 2

 

Taking the remaining 2 pieces of backing fabrics, Harvest Cider and Ginger Snap, lay out the pieced strip between the two in a proportion that pleases you, and sew those last two seams!

Tip:  When I have a length of unpieced fabric to sew to a pieced length, I always pin to avoid puckers or gathers.

You will need batting at least 69″ x 69″.  Take care to line up the strip on the back with the front and baste…a little fiddley, but not too difficult.

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Quilt as you like, bind ‘er up and you have a wonderful, warm Fall throw, just in time for those cool nights and snuggles by fire!

Hot cider anyone?   

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One 68″ x 68″ quilted throw!

 

 

 

Patchwork of the Crosses


pc                               Patchwork of the Crosses has been an incredibly popular quilt to make.  This English Paper Piecing project has continued to stay  a favorite of quilters.  It continues to surge the internet with many posts and pictures.  English Paper Piecing, (or EPP as it is known), is very easy to do and great for take along projects.  This addictive process will have you hooked.  Patchwork of the Crosses from Lucy Boston has landed itself to be a classic.  For fabric lovers, this is the quilt to be your next project.  Choosing fabric and how to arrange scale and prints is what quilters love about Patchwork of the Crosses.  Very easily can you release the inner artist in you.

514jsP5v-pL._SX384_BO1,204,203,200_Be sure to get on board with us as we will be starting a series of tutorials to complete this fun and addictive quilt.  In the meantime, you can order the pattern now to be prepared.   Click Here.  Then you will be ready to start the journey along with us and many more.   Stay tuned for more details.  Better yet why not subscribe to our blog and you won’t miss out on a posting.  Our subscribe from is at the top right our blog website.

 

 

Show Me How To EPP… (English Paper Piecing)


il_570xN.525273139_bxamEnglish Paper Piecing is all the craze right now.  It is a very traditional way to make a quilt.  Many people look at EPP, (English Paper Piecing), as difficult and time consuming.  In fact, this is just the opposite.  EPP is very portable and  great to take along with you.  No need for a sewing machine.  As you sew shapes together by hand, you will complete sections of your project very quickly.  It’s like working on a bunch of small projects.  There are many new techniques and tools to help make EPP much faster and more enjoyable.  Watch this  introduction video from Susan Daley of Busy Fingers.  She is the Queen of EPP.  By scrolling down and clicking on the pictures, you can order all of the items that are required which she talks about in her video.   EPP is fun and very addictive.  The finished product is something you can truly be proud of.

 

English Paper Piecing Papers

English Paper Piecing Papers

English Paper Piecing Templates

English Paper Piecing Templates

 

 

 

 

 

Kay Buckley Perfect Scissors

Kay Buckley Perfect Scissors

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Sewline Glue Pen

Just Keep Swimming Mini Quilt Tutorial


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Here is a mini quilt by Jan Daly Quilts for Moda Bake Shop, that can be used for a small table, wall hanging or even a pillow top.  Another great little project using a mini charm pack.

  • 1 Mini Charm Pack (shown in Paradiso by Kate Spain)
  • 1/2 yard background/binding fabric (shown in Royal Blue Bella Solid)
  • 2/3 yard backing fabric (shown in Paradiso Lagoon Blue Bonaire)
  • batting measuring 20″ x 20″
  • white size 8 perle cotton
  • light-colored marking pencil

Also Helpful:

  • spray basting adhesive
  • sandpaper board

 

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Before cutting, spend a few moments sorting your mini charm squares.  You’ll need to reserve 16 mini charm squares for the center of the quilt and you’ll be using 24 (2 each) for the 12 fish blocks — you’ll have 2 squares left over.

Here’s how I sorted mine.  For the patchwork center of the quilt:

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For the fish blocks:

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Cutting Background Fabric:

First cut your background fabric into the following:

  • 3 strips 1 1/4″ x WOF (width of fabric – or one selvage edge to the other)
  • 4 strips 1 1/2″ x WOF
  • 3 strips 2 1/4″ x WOF (for binding – feel free to adjust the width to suit your preference)

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Further cut your strips into the following:

  • from the 3 – 1 1/4″ x WOF strips:
    • 72 – 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″
  • from the 4 – 1 1/2″ x WOF strips:
    • from the first strip, 12 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
    • from the second strip, 4 – 1 1/2″ x 9 1/2″
    • from the remaining two strips, 4 – 1 1/2″ x 15 1/2″
  • reserve the 3 – 2 1/4″ x WOF strips for binding

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Cutting Mini Charm Squares:

Each fish block is made of 2 mini charm squares — one for the front and the back of the fish, and one for the middle stripe and the tail.  Gather 12 sets of 2 squares for each fish.  Cut each mini charm square in half — each half should measure 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″.

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Assemble Fish Blocks:

On the back of each of 72 background fabric 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ squares and using a light marking pencil, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner.  Note:  placing the squares on a sandpaper board before drawing the lines helps to keep the fabric from shifting or distorting as you draw the lines.

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For each fish:

Place fish front, back, and tail mini charm 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles on flat surface with right sides up (reserve the fish stripe 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ rectangle for later use).  Place 1 background fabric 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ on each rectangle with drawn line visible as follows:

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Stitch along drawn lines.  Press towards the background fabric for the front and back of fish and towards the print for the fish tail:

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Trim excess fabric a scant 1/4″ from seams:

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Place 1 background fabric 1 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ on fish front, back, and tail units with drawn lines visible as follows:

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Stitch along drawn lines.  Press towards the background fabric for the front and back of fish and towards the print for the fish tail:

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Trim excess fabric a scant 1/4″ from seams:

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Lay out fish front, stripe, back, and tail units as follows:

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Stitch together fish front and stripe and fish back and tail:

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Stitch together fish stripe and fish back to make a finished fish.  Fish block should measure 2 1/2″ x 3 1/2″.

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Repeat to make 12 fish blocks:

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Assemble Quilt Center:

Lay out 16 reserved mini charm squares as desired in 4 rows of 4 each:

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Stitch mini charm squares together in rows:

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Stitch together rows.  Finished center should measure 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″:

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Add Inner Borders:

Note:  I added all borders using a partial seam method.

Place a background fabric 1 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ atop right edge of quilt center with right side of quilt center facing up and aligning rough edges.  The top edge of both the quilt center and the inner border strip should line up, but the border strip should extend 1″ beyond the quilt center:

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Stitch along edge, stopping at least 2″ before end of border strip.  Press towards inner border:

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Place a background fabric 1 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ atop top edge of quilt center with right side of quilt center facing up as follows:

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Stitch top inner border to quilt center.  Press towards inner border:

jks29-800x842Repeat steps to add left side inner border:

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Repeat steps to add bottom inner border.  Note:  make sure to tuck the bottom of the right side inner border out of the way before stitching — see bottom right corner of photo:

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Finish stitching the right border seam:

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Here’s a close-up of the bottom right corner prior to stitching:

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And here’s what the stitched together quilt center and inner borders should look like.  At this point, the quilt should measure 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″:

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Assemble Fish Borders:

Referring to quilt, lay out quilt center unit, 12 fish blocks, and 12 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles as desired:

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Each fish border will include 3 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles and 3 fish blocks as follows:

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For each border, stitch together 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles and fish blocks.  Press seams towards the 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles:jks38-800x719

Add Fish Borders:

The fish borders are stitched to the quilt center unit using the same partial seam method demonstrated above.

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Place 1 fish border atop right edge of quilt center unit with right side of quilt center unit facing up and aligning rough edges.  The fish border should extend 2″ beyond the quilt center unit.  Stitch, making sure to stop sewing at least 3″ from the end of the fish border.  Press towards inner border:

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Repeat steps to add top fish border:

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Repeat steps to add left fish border:

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Repeat steps to add bottom fish border, again making sure to tuck the bottom of the right side fish border out of the way before stitching :

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Finish right edge seam and press well.  Quilt should now measure 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″:

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Add Outer Borders:

Using the same partial seam method, add the 4 – 1 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ outer borders pressing seams towards the outer borders.

Add the right side (stop stitching at least 2″ from edge of border strip):

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Add the top border:

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Add the left border:

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Add the bottom border:

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Finish stitching the right side seam.  Press well.  And voilà, you’ve finished your quilt top!

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Finish Quilt:

Layer the quilt top with batting and backing.  Baste and quilt as desired.  Because of the small size of this quilt, I chose to baste it using spray basting adhesive between the three layers.  To quilt, I used size 8 white perle cotton and a big stitch in a cross hatch pattern for the patchwork center.  I also quilted on either side of each fish’s stripe and finally, I quilted a wavy line in both the inner and outer borders.

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This pattern makes 1 charming 16″ x 16″ quilt.  If you’d like to make Just Keep Swimming into a pillow, consider increasing the dimensions of your outer border strips to 1 3/4″ x 15 3/4.”  This would allow for a 1/2″ outer seam allowance and would still result in a 16″ x 16″ finished pillow top.  Good luck!

Click Here for a printable version.