No need to sew batting edges together anymore, you can fuse it. Developed specifically to fuse batting together, to enlarge or reinforce. This 15 yd x 1-1/2” wide cloth tape allows batting edges to be fused together with a soft fuse that stretches. It eliminates hand or machine stitching when extra batting pieces are needed to fit a specific project. Can be used on any type batting. Does not shrink or bulk with washing. Click Here to order. Be sure to watch the video below for a full tutorial.
- 1 fat quarter of fabric for the outer part of the apron.
- 1 fat quarter of coordinating fabric for the accent and lining.
- 1 fat quarter or scrap of fabric for apron ties.
- Coordinating thread and sewing supplies (sewing machine, scissors, cutting mat, etc.)
- Please note: I have used different fabric in the tutorial then the feature picutre.
1. Align outer and lining fabrics, right sides facing.
- Stitch around edges using a 1/4 inch seam, leaving a 4 inch opening in one of the short sides.
- Clip corners.
- Invert right side facing through opening.
- Use small blunt object, such as a chopstick, to press out clipped corners. Press, folding in raw edges at open area.
- Cut a total of two, 2 1/2 inch strips to make double fold bias binding for ties . (Fold lengthwise). Stitch along length, close to edge.
- Knot ends. Cut bias tape in half to make 2 straps.
- Lay out apron so lining side is facing up. The top of the apron will be the side that has the hole. Flip this top edge over on itself, as shown, by 1.5 inch. Pin in place along length. Tuck raw ends of bias straps in on either end.
- Sew along length, close to the edge, and over ends to secure straps in place.
Note: Ensure raw edges of the hole are tucked inside as you sew. This will close up that opening!
- Do some top stitching along other short edge. This will become the top of your pockets.
- Fold bottom edge up over lining so that pockets measure 8 inches deep. Pin in place. Sew along right and left edges of apron to secure, close to edge. You may wish to insert a tag along this seam.
- Last step! Measure two lines along the pocket, each 5 inches from the sides of the apron. These can be marked by folding and creasing with an iron, or using a ruler and dissolving marker. Sew along these markings from the bottom edge of the apron to the top pocket edge. This divides the pocket into sections.
Voila! You are finished and ready to wear.
His and Her Scrappy Christmas Stockings
(From Moda Bake Shop)
– One Figgy Pudding Jelly Roll by Basic Grey
– Two, 1/2 yard pieces of coordinating fabric.
– One 20′ x 20″ piece of light weight batting.
(I used warm and natural)
Step 1 – Pick out 10 of your favorite strips of fabric from your Jelly Roll. Cut them in half length wise so you have ten 2 1/2 x 18″ pieces.
Step 2 – Cut your strips so that one end measures approx 1″ in width and the other the full 2 1/2″. This will give you the scrappy look that were going for.
Step 3 – Sew all strips together (1/4″ seam allowance), starting with the 1″ end of the strip being at the left end (start), and then next time the 2 1/2″ strip being at the left end. Do this with all ten strips. Then using your favorite stitch, sew the fabric onto the batting by sewing in the ditch of each seam. Note: Make sure you start at the bottom left edge so the the extra batting will be at the top of the stocking.
Step 4 – Cut the quilted fabric in half like in the picture below. One will be for the red stocking and one for the green.
Step 5 – Cut the coordinating pieces of fabric. I tried to show how to lay out your pieces to cut them, but I’m definitely not a photo shop expert so hopefully if will make some sense. The diagram below shows how the stockings should be laid out on a 18″ x 45 ” piece of fabric with the left edge folded over enough to cut two. The first stocking needs to be cut on the folded fabric, these two will be used for the lining so you can set them aside for later. Go ahead and cut out the rest of the pieces as explained. You will also need to do this out of the 2nd piece of coordinating fabric for the 2nd stocking. I sure hope this makes sense.
Step 6 – Sew the 9 x 3 1/4″ piece of coordinating fabric onto the top of stocking. Do this by placing the coordinating piece right side down and facing right side of stocking with the edge lined up with the edge of your last strip of fabric. Sew along top using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Open and press.
Step 7 – Lay your pattern on top of your stocking fabric so that the stocking pattern is at the top of the red fabric. Mine doesn’t look that way, I put a large piece of red because I wasn’t sure how long to make it, but 3″ of the red fabric on top seems to be about right.
Step 8 – Layer fabric as show below and then cut out stocking.
Step 9 – Explained in picture.
Step 10 – Sew around stocking using a 1/4″ seam allowance, then trim. Turn stocking right side out so the batting is in the middle. Also sew around the two stockings pieces that were cut on the folded fabric, place right sides together and sew – leave about a 2″ opening on the straight side of stocking so you can turn it later.
Step 11 – Making the loop/hook – Take your 2 1/2 x 6″ piece of fabric and iron in half width wise. Unfold and fold outer edges into the middle crease, then fold entire piece in half width wise and sew along outer two edges using about 1/8″ seam allowance.
Half square triangles are found in many quilt patterns. They are fun and easy to make. You can square up your half square triangles with the traditional method using a regular square up ruler. However, using Quilt in a Day’s 9 1/2″ Triangle Square Up Ruler, or a 6 1/2″ Triangle Square Up Ruler, will save you time and makes the task of squaring up much easier and faster. Below is a video from Elenor Burns of Quilt in a Day demonstrating the traditional method and the time saving method with her Triangle Square Up Rulers. It’s a little vintage video that shows this technique well.
Step – By – Step Simple Cross Seams
The simplest matching involves butting perpendicular seams. Hold the two units together, snugging the seam allowances together until you feel that the seams match exactly. Here is the trick the works best. When you pin the pieces together, pin on both sides of the seam intersection, placing the pins perpendicular to the fabric edge. The pins hold the seam in place as well as keep the seam allowances from flipping up as you stitch the seam. To improve this step even further, using Clover double fork pins create a better hold then two single pins. There is less chance of the fabric slipping. The Clover double fork pins are actually one single needle bent to create the fork. Each side of the fork pin will pin itself to each side of the seamed fabric. This creates a much stronger hold.
Stitch the seam, removing the pins as you approach them. If possible, stitch with the seam allowance of the piece underneath facing you and the seam allowance of the top piece away from you. That way, you can keep the top seam allowance from folding under with a straight pin or a stiletto, and the feed dogs will control the seam allowance on the piece underneath. Sometimes, it’s just not possible to have seams pressed in opposite directions. To match seams that are pressed in the same direction , it is especially important to press the seams firmly and pin the intersection securely, to avoid the matching point being pushed out of alignment. First, pin directly along the side of the seam without seam allowances, to hold the matched seam intersection in position. Then pin through the bulk of the double seam allowances.